“There is a big difference between fear and panic”: surfer Andrei Carr on conquering the world's largest waves

- I grew up in a family of athletes. As far as I can remember, in my life there were skis, boards, mountains, ropes, paragliders and constant adventures. Youth passed with a parachute on his back. I remember how I watched the film "On the crest of a wave" in my childhood, and since then I was disturbed by the thought of surfing. In 2008, I flew to Indonesia for the winter, to finally get on the surf.

In Indonesia, I was interested in the biggest waves: I raked into the ocean with the Australians, while the rest sat on the shore and watched. In 2015, after a four-year break in surfing, I realized: either now or never. And he went to the Portuguese Nazare (the city is famous n thanks to the huge waves of Praia Do Norte. - Approx. Ed.

).

When I started, none of the Russians was engaged in big wave surfing. There were those who made a movie about big waves, but it didn’t reach the big wave. I studied from scratch, fishing out information in different parts of the globe. Of course it was scary.

There is fear even now - only fools are not afraid.

Big wave differs from regular surfing in much the same way as freeride - from slalom or park snowboarding. In surfing on big waves there is a place for style, beautiful deep turns, high jumps and trumpets. But it also has elements of a game with the elements, physical and emotional overcoming, teamwork, mutual assistance. The stakes are higher here, so there are more emotions.

I spat on sporting ambitions. Partly because of the venality of the International League for Surfing, and partly because of the indifference of the general public in Russia. Sponsors in our country are only interested in cents for views, Russian media records. Therefore, training as such is now minimized. I live and work in St.

Petersburg. I go to the gym three times a week, do cardio. Once or twice a month I break down and fly to Nazar. This is my home spot.

I would like to spend the season there, but so far I wind up and down and spend about two months there a year.

In Portugal, good food, big waves, the sun in the right proportion with the weather in St. Petersburg. Of the minuses, Portugal has a terrible bureaucracy. Some good things are never done.

My biggest waves happened in Nazar, and I'm sure that they are not the last.

The likelihood that waves of such sizes will come somewhere else is almost zero. And in Nazar, I sometimes don’t believe that I am in the photo - the local waves are so huge.

Fear is an integral part of any high-speed and risky activity. But there is a big difference between fear and panic. Fear is a sense of danger necessary for the release of adrenaline into the blood, the key to all the superpowers embedded in the body.

Panic is numb.

The secret is not to show yourself that you are scared. Seeing danger, take a deep breath, prepare popcorn and enjoy an interactive performance.

Of the equipment you need d Oska, ultra-rigid fins, loops for which the cable is attached to the leg, a wetsuit, under it - an impact suit from bumps, on top is a vest that can withstand loads of up to one hundred kilonewtons (although, in a good way, I have long had to buy an inflatable one).

A jet ski is taken out to the spot of surfers.

It requires a liferaft, cable, walkie-talkie, a bunch of belts and ropes. Next, you need a million little things - from gluing the deck to diving equipment.

The cost of big wave surfing can be compared with motor sports. The seasonal expenses include jet ski, equipment, fuel, infrastructure - this is already 20-25 thousand euros. Plus flights, accommodation, food.

Videos and photos - up to 800 euros per minute or 100 euros per frame. You can make only one mistake - and in 20 seconds to "get" a few thousand euros, drowning equipment and breaking a jet ski. For the last three years I have been closing a loan from last season around October. Then I board a plane and fly to open a new one.

Russia and surfing are incompatible concepts for me.

Although, it seems, in the Far East it is not bad. Recently, on Sakhalin, I saw smooth waves to the waist. I thought about buying a wetsuit for water just above freezing.

This year I plan not to rush to Portugal at the first click, but to focus on work - I’m Development Director at Tunnel Tech - and at home . I was tired of hoping for someone else's support and decided to plow myself.

In order for a place to appear in life for something new, one must throw away something old. Therefore, I am saving up strength and money for equipment for new legendary waves.

All last year I have been developing an artificial wave for surfing, which will make this sport accessible in places without the ocean. Now for me this is the main project. Further down the list: a jet-powered wing, children, their own sailing yacht.

Life is not limited to surfing. He is just one of her sides.

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