Summer is a great time to study the center of the capital in more detail. Before you are three routes drawn up jointly with Tatyana Vorontsova, a Moscow scholar and co-author of the Central Guidebook, which connected the Central Markets of Moscow.
During a walk from
on Maroseyka to Rozhdestvensky Boulevard You will see the architectural sights of the center of the capital, ceremonial and courtyards, famous and "secret" objects: the Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker in Klenniki, apartment buildings Lobzeva, Tea House, Sretensky Monastery and others.
The temple has changed many times in its history title. Once upon a time, maples grew here, and the church was called Nikola in Klenniki, then trees were cut down and they began to build gun workshops in the neighborhood for making and calcining blades, then the church became known as Nikola in Klinniki; a little later a pancake establishment was built on the site of the destroyed weapons rooms, a new name appeared - Nikola in Blinniki. So the name, tightly clutching the letters, carries its root through five centuries, not giving up the rhythm (maple - clinics - pancakes).
This house, built by the architect E. R.
Nirnzee in 1905, removed from the first line of a noisy street. In courtyards, time flows differently. You can stop and remember those who lived here. On the wall of the gate connecting the courtyards there is a memorial plaque: "1937-1952. To everyone who lived in this house.
He left and did not return. 1941-1945."
For more than two centuries the Lazarev’s house has been standing in Moscow in the Armenian Lane. The famous Lazarevsky Institute of Oriental Languages was located here. By the way, pay attention: the right building has a side facade that is different from the whole ensemble.
The ornamental facade is decorated with details of Russian architecture of the 17th century, all of which are stone chambers recently discovered by restorers, which belonged, perhaps, to the princes of Miloslavsky.
In 1895, the Ambassador Extraordinary Ambassador and Chancellor of the Chinese Empire Li Hongzhang gathered to visit the coronation of Nicholas II. In the hope of attracting the guest’s attention and concluding exclusive contracts for the supply of tea, the merchant Sergei Perlov rebuilt his own house in an oriental style. The bright and unusual building immediately attracted the attention of Muscovites, however, having arrived in the city, Li Hongzhang chose to visit representatives of the older branch of the Trading House. He visited the estate of Semyon Perlov, who at that time was managing the enterprise V.
Perlov and Sons.
The houses of the insurance company "Russia" are considered to be one of the most beautiful profitable houses of pre-revolutionary Moscow. Here on the facade you can find many interesting details: lion, salamander, bats, pelican, elephants and even crocodiles. But the main thing in this house is not external beauty, but internal comfort and advanced technical equipment. In 1901, the house had its own power station, oil storage, climate control system, a glacier, carpentry shops, its own laundry room, elevators and even its own artesian well.
Sretensky Monastery was founded in 1397 by Prince Vasily I on Kuchkovo field in memory of the deliverance of Moscow from the invasion of Tamerlane in 1395. In the XVII century it was moved to its current place - Bolshaya Lubyanka Street. On the territory of the monastery is the Cathedral of the Presentation of the Vladimir Icon of the Mother of God, built in 1679, and the Cathedral of the New Martyrs and Confessors of Russia in Lubyanka, consecrated in 2017.
In 1896, a wealthy peasant Pyotr Sysoev bought the house in Peresnikov Lane, who arrived to Moscow from the village of Safronovo, Podolsk district. Peter got rich thanks to his own work: he was a modeler, and so skillful that he was involved in stucco work in the interiors of the famous Filipovskaya bakery and the Metropol hotel.
With the help of architect V.P. Zubov, the master rebuilt the house a bit and decorated the facade with caryatids and other elements of stucco decoration, thus creating a good advertisement for his workshop. The monogram with the letters "PS", placed by Peter Sysoev in the center of the facade of the house, is still preserved.
The second route will lead you in the footsteps of the great people: actors, musicians, writers, engineers, scientists. There will be an occasion to recall stories from the life and work of Turgenev, Gogol, Fet, Rodchenko and other prominent personalities.
Here was located the board and the main store of the Association of Faience and Porcelain Production M . S. Kuznetsova.
" Matvey Sidorovich was called only "the porcelain king of Russia." His "kingdom" united seven major industries across the country, and since 1903, dishes from Kuznetsov factories were delivered to the Court of His Imperial Majesty.
The owner of a magnificent estate on Myasnitskaya - Alexander Chertkov: scientist, archaeologist, historian , numismatist, book collector. In 1840, this property became one of the main cultural centers of Moscow. Pushkin, Gogol, Zagoskin, Zhukovsky came to visit Chertkov’s vast library.
After Chertkov’s death in 1858, the estate passed to his son Grigory, who did his father’s will and opened a public reading room in one of the wings.
Once upon a time there was a small two-story house in the place of a modern large building, in which was one of the 91 dairy store A.V. Chichkina. Alexander Vasilievich was not only a successful entrepreneur, but also a well-known specialist in the field of labor organization and advertising.
Muscovites of the early twentieth century knew him thanks to such an action: every morning the managers of all Chichkin’s shops went outside and poured yesterday’s - unsold - milk onto the roadway. This was done for the sole purpose: to show that in the stores of Alexander Vasilyevich only the freshest is on sale - today! - milk.
Perhaps, the most famous photographer, artist and as the designer of the 1920s would say today: Alexander Rodchenko. His frequent guest was the poet Vladimir Mayakovsky. It was here that the "Advertising Designers" appeared (as Mayakovsky and Rodchenko called their creative union).
And it was here that the most famous advertising posters of the early Soviet period appeared with sonorous slogans.
Initially, the Turgenev library was located nearby - on the square. In the 1970s, during the construction of the metro station, the building was dismantled, and book funds "moved" to Bobrov Lane, but the library retained the name of I. S. Turgenev.
And this name was given back in 1885 by the founder of the library V. A. Morozova to perpetuate the memory of the great Russian writer. By the way, the library to them. I.
S. Turgenev became the first free library in Moscow.
There is still a monument to N.K. Krupskaya on Sretensky Boulevard, appeared here back in 1976.
This installation site was not chosen by chance - not far from the monument, on Chistoprudny Boulevard, there is a house in which the People's Commissariat of Education was located from 1921 to 1925, where, as Deputy People's Commissar N.K. Krupskaya, she worked to create the Soviet system of public education .
In the 1840s, the Russian writer N.F.
Pavlov owned the house who arranged here the literary and philosophical “Pavlovsk Thursdays”, famous throughout Moscow, attended by N. Gogol, E. Baratynsky, Y. Polonsky, A. Fet, A.
S. Khomyakov, S. Shevyrev, P. Chaadaev, D. Kryukov and other celebrities.
Here also appeared the Kireevsky nobles and the young Yu. Samarin.
Photo: shutterstock. com
Among the interesting details on this route - a restored pre-revolutionary sign of a French dishes shop on Maroseyka, a house with galdareks on Pokrovka, pagan idols on Chistoprudny Boulevard.
At number 9, the original mosaic signs of the glassware shop of the French company A were restored F.
Dutfua, who was located in this building before the revolution. The sign was made at the beginning of the 20th century (1900s) in the smalt and ceramic workshops of the Stroganov School. The Dutfua family owned a crystal plant in Moscow, which produced glassware for various purposes: tableware, chemical, pharmacy, perfume, and so on.
At the gates of the luxurious mansion of Field Marshal P. A.
Rumyantsev-Zadunaysky you can see the tablet: "Free from standing. Butchers. hour. 3rd quarter." It recalls the Moscow orders of the 19th century: all homeowners, in the presence of extra premises, were obliged to take the military to their billets.
Under Emperor Paul I in Moscow, the construction of Pokrovsky soldiers' barracks was underway. Anyone who donated their funds to this event was freed from military standing, and an appropriate sign was hung at his gate so that they would no longer be bothered.
The main feature of the house - outdoor galleries - is hidden from the courtyard. Once these houses were common in Moscow, now they are almost gone. Initially, the galleries were with wide windows closed, before the revolution, a servant lived here.
In 1950-1960, during the repair, the external walls of the gallery were demolished, as a result of which they began to resemble galleries in the yards of southern cities.
The main detail of the facade of the former apartment building of the Trinity Church is terracotta bas-reliefs of fantastic animals, birds and plants, made by the art team "Murava" according to the sketches of the artist S. I. Vashkov (student V. Vasnetsov).
The bas-reliefs of the Dmitrievsky Cathedral in Vladimir, which S.I. Vashkov considered the top of Vladimir architecture, served as samples for the sketch.
Monument to Abai Kunanbayev - a gift from Kazakhstan to the capital of Russia. This is a sculptural ensemble: a monument made of bronze is a statue of a poet sitting on a stone pedestal decorated with national patterns and the inscription: “The creator of the immortal word is eternal”.
The composition includes two stone idols created in the style of the Polovtsian idols.
Monument to the engineer V. Shukhov depicts the scientist in the usual working image: with a pile rolled up drawings and with a ruler in hand. The pedestal, like the monument itself, is cast from bronze and amazes with the number of small details. Here are some of Shukhov’s creations: the Shukhov Tower, Kievsky Station, bridges, a cracking unit, an oil pipeline and oil rigs.
On Rozhdestvensky Boulevard, near house number 10, a large crown hangs over the sidewalk tree. For its size and venerable age, this tree is often jokingly called the tree of power. And this is a real movie hero. It was under him that Arkady Veliurov in the film "Pokrovsky Gate" is sad about the disappeared Naiad.
A more detailed description of the routes and attractions is available in the Central Guide ", which can be taken for free in the central markets on Rozhdestvensky Boulevard and on Maroseyka.
You can walk along the routes yourself or in the company of an erudite guide (in this case, the tour will be paid).